🇯🇴 Jordan vs 🇿🇦 South Africa
By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
People love to tell me that Jordan and South Africa are both "easy" for English speakers. These people have usually spent four days in a resort pool and never once tried to argue with a pharmacist. Easy is not the word. Easy implies a shared assumption about what language even means in a given room, and in both of these countries, that assumption dissolves the moment you leave the airport lounge.
Jordan gives you English like a VIP wristband — flash it at the right venues and doors open, menus translate themselves, taxi drivers suddenly remember three semesters of school English they swore they'd forgotten. South Africa does something crueler and, I'd argue, more honest: it hands you eleven official languages, tells you English technically counts as one of them, and then lets you discover in real time that "technically" is doing an enormous amount of unpaid labor. One country curates your language experience. The other simply refuses to.
Jordan
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Learn Levantine Arabic greetings — marhaba, shukran — people light up, genuinely | Assume English covers you once you're off King's Highway or outside Amman's west side |
| Keep a translation app loaded and offline-ready for rural areas and Bedouin encampments | Expect written signage logic to be consistent — transliteration spelling varies wildly between regions |
| Use hand gestures and numbers for haggling — universally understood in souks | Raise your voice when someone doesn't understand you; it reads as aggression, not clarity |
| Ask hotel staff to write addresses in Arabic for taxi drivers | Rely on Google Translate's spoken Arabic function in noisy markets — it mangles dialect badly |
South Africa
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Default to English in cities — it's the functional lingua franca almost everywhere | Assume English is anyone's first language just because they're fluent in it |
| Learn a handful of Zulu or Xhosa greetings — sawubona, molo — it visibly shifts how you're treated | Confuse Afrikaans with "the local language" — it's one of eleven, with its own fraught history |
| Listen for code-switching in group conversations; it's not rudeness, it's normal bilingual flow | Expect uniform accents or vocabulary — language and class markers shift sharply by suburb |
| Pay attention to township and rural variance — English fluency drops fast outside urban centres | Treat Afrikaans speakers as a monolith — political baggage around the language runs deep |
Here is the thing nobody tells you about Jordan: the English fluency is real, but it is also a performance staged almost entirely for your benefit, and the moment the curtain drops, you're on your own. Petra, Wadi Rum, the hotel strip in Amman's Abdoun and Shmeisani neighborhoods — these places run on tourist-grade English because tourism is the industry, and Jordanians are extraordinarily good at their jobs. Guides switch effortlessly between Arabic, English, and whatever halting phrasebook French a busload of visitors is attempting. It's genuinely impressive, and it lulls you into believing the whole country operates this way.
It does not. Step into a government office to sort a visa extension, a pharmacy outside the tourist bubble, or a shared taxi (a servees) between cities, and you're suddenly negotiating in Modern Standard Arabic's unruly cousin, Jordanian/Levantine dialect, with zero subtitles. Street signage transliterates Arabic into Latin script with no consistent system whatsoever — the same street can appear spelled three different ways within a single kilometre, which is less "charming inconsistency" and more "actively hostile to anyone using a paper map." English literacy among older generations and in rural areas drops off sharply; this is a country where education reform brought English instruction into schools relatively recently, so the generational gap is stark and real.
What saves Jordan, and what I will begrudgingly credit it for, is the culture of hospitality that papers over the gaps. Jordanians will physically walk you to where you need to go rather than let the language barrier become your problem. That's not a substitute for actual mutual comprehension, but it's a remarkably effective workaround, and it means the frustration curve in Jordan spikes but rarely sustains. You'll have one baffling, sweaty hour trying to explain a stomach bug to a pharmacist using only gestures and desperation, and then someone's cousin who studied in Michigan will materialize and save you. It's chaotic. It's also, somehow, warm.
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South Africa doesn't perform English for you — it simply assumes you'll manage, which is a completely different psychological experience and, frankly, a ruder awakening. The country's eleven official languages (yes, eleven, a constitutional flex unmatched almost anywhere) means there is no single "local language" to brace for. There's English, Afrikaans, Zulu, Xhosa, Sotho, Tswana, Venda, Tsonga, Ndebele, Swati, and Pedi, and which one you'll actually hear depends entirely on which province, which township, and sometimes which specific street corner you're standing on.
English functions as the practical lingua franca in business, media, and most urban interactions — about ten percent of the population speaks it at home, yet it dominates signage, contracts, and official life, which tells you everything about how language and power are distributed here. That mismatch is the real story. English fluency is excellent in Cape Town's city bowl and Johannesburg's northern suburbs, and falls off a cliff in Eastern Cape villages or Mpumalanga farmland, where Xhosa or Siswati carries daily life and English is a second or third language wheeled out specifically for outsiders like you.
What genuinely rattles newcomers is the code-switching — South Africans will glide between three languages in a single conversation, sometimes a single sentence, without acknowledging it happened. It's not performance, it's not confusion, it's just how multilingual fluency works when you've grown up with it, and it leaves monolingual visitors feeling perpetually one beat behind. Add Afrikaans into the mix, a language still carrying heavy apartheid-era political weight for many Black South Africans, and you realize quickly that language here is never neutral — every word choice signals history, region, and allegiance. Jordan's barrier is logistical. South Africa's is logistical and political, which makes it exhausting in a completely different register.
Jordan wins, and it's not close. Jordan's language barrier is a practical inconvenience with a generous workaround built into the culture — hospitality fills the gap English doesn't. You'll be confused, you'll mime a lot, and someone will rescue you within the hour. South Africa's language situation, by contrast, isn't really a "barrier" in the simple sense — it's an entire unresolved national conversation about power, history, and belonging that you, the tourist, get dropped into without context. English will technically get you through South Africa. It will also quietly mark you as someone who never bothered to notice that English getting you through is precisely the problem. Jordan asks for your patience. South Africa asks you to reckon with something far bigger than vocabulary, and most visitors leave having not even noticed the invitation.
Expat.com forum, Amman — paraphrased: a longtime resident noted that English covers hotels and tourist sites fine, but anything involving bureaucracy, like residency paperwork, requires either fluent Arabic or a very patient local friend willing to translate line by line.
Tales from a Small Planet, Amman post report — paraphrased: a diplomatic spouse described daily errands as manageable with basic phrases, but said real integration never happened without investing seriously in Arabic lessons, since social life outside the expat bubble ran entirely in dialect.
Expat.com forum, South Africa — paraphrased: a new arrival asked which language was actually worth learning first, and the responses split sharply by region, with longtime expats noting that the "right" answer in Cape Town was nearly useless in rural KwaZulu-Natal.
People move to Jordan or South Africa expecting language to be the hard part, and in both places they're right, just for entirely different reasons. Jordan will teach you humility through sheer logistics and then hand you a cup of tea while you figure it out. South Africa will teach you that fluency and understanding are not the same thing, and that English, for all its global swagger, can leave you linguistically present and culturally absent in the very same breath. If you want a language barrier you can charm your way past, book Amman. If you want one that quietly, permanently recalibrates how you think about whose language gets to be "default" anywhere in the world, go to Johannesburg and actually listen. Just don't go to either pretending a few Duolingo lessons make you fluent in humility. They don't.
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Photo by Hüseyin Göçek via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.