🇲🇲 Myanmar vs 🇪🇸 Spain — Parks and Green Space Culture
By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Myanmar doesn't really distinguish between "park" and "temple grounds" the way most countries do — the two categories blur constantly, so that a stroll through green space in Yangon or Bagan is as likely to involve barefoot reverence at a stupa as it is casual relaxation. Spain, by contrast, has turned its parks into something closer to communal outdoor furniture, an extension of the living room that just happens to have trees in it, where Madrid's Retiro on a Sunday afternoon looks less like nature and more like the entire city decided to have the same very good idea at once.
I have removed my shoes to walk the grounds of Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon at dawn, marble cool underfoot, monks moving silently past in deep orange robes, and felt something genuinely close to reverence in a public green space for the first time in years. I have also sat in Retiro on a Sunday, wedged between a family's third impromptu picnic of the afternoon and a group of friends who had clearly been drinking since noon, and understood that Spanish parks operate on an entirely different, equally valid theory of what public space is for.
🇲🇲 Myanmar
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Remove shoes and socks at pagoda grounds without exception — this is non-negotiable, not optional | Wear revealing clothing at temple sites, even ones that feel more like a public park than a shrine |
| Visit at dawn or dusk for both the light and the genuine local ritual activity happening then | Photograph monks or worshippers up close without permission; it's a real intrusion, not a photo op |
| Walk clockwise around stupas and pagodas, following the traditional direction of circumambulation | Point your feet toward Buddha images while sitting; foot direction carries real cultural weight |
🇪🇸 Spain
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Bring a full picnic setup like locals do — Spanish parks are built for lingering for hours | Expect quiet, contemplative green space; Spanish parks are social by design, especially on weekends |
| Join the siesta-adjacent midday park nap culture if you're around at the right hour | Rush through Retiro or similar parks on a tight schedule; they reward slow, aimless wandering |
| Rent a rowing boat on Retiro's lake if you want a genuinely local, slightly kitsch experience | Assume all Spanish parks are equally lively; smaller neighbourhood parks have their own quieter rhythm |
It's genuinely difficult, in Myanmar, to separate the concept of a park from the concept of a temple, because so much of the country's most significant green and open space exists specifically in service of religious sites. Shwedagon Pagoda's grounds in Yangon function simultaneously as a working, actively used Buddhist site and as one of the city's most significant public gathering spaces — locals come to pray, but also to sit, talk, watch the light change on the gold stupa at dusk, bring children to run across the marble in the cool evening air. The sacred and the recreational aren't separate categories requiring separate etiquette; they're fully merged, and visitors need to hold both in mind simultaneously.
Bagan takes this even further, an archaeological zone of literally thousands of temples and stupas spread across a plain that functions, for both pilgrims and casual visitors, as something between a historical park and an active devotional landscape. Watching sunrise from an elevated viewpoint over Bagan's temple field has become a genuinely famous experience, but it's worth remembering that for a meaningful portion of the people present, this isn't tourism — it's an ongoing spiritual practice happening to occur in a place that's also, undeniably, breathtaking.
The etiquette here carries real weight, not performative politeness but genuine cultural and religious significance. Bare feet at pagoda grounds is universal and non-negotiable, regardless of how casual the site might feel compared to a formal temple interior. Clockwise circumambulation around stupas follows Buddhist tradition and isn't just a suggested walking direction — going the wrong way is noticed, and while foreigners are rarely confronted directly about it, it registers as a small but real disrespect. Foot direction, similarly, carries weight that outsiders consistently underestimate: pointing the soles of your feet toward a Buddha image while seated is a genuine faux pas, not a minor social awkwardness.
What makes Myanmar's green space culture so distinct is the total absence of the leisure-versus-reverence divide most other countries maintain. There's no equivalent of Spain's boozy Sunday picnic here — even the most relaxed, socially casual moments in these spaces carry an undercurrent of the sacred that never fully switches off, and visitors who treat pagoda grounds purely as scenic parkland, ignoring the etiquette because the space "feels" recreational, cause real, if quiet, offense.
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Madrid's Retiro Park, and its equivalents across Spain's other major cities, operate on a philosophy that's almost the mirror opposite of Myanmar's — green space here is deliberately, enthusiastically secular, communal, and built for extended, unhurried social use. A Sunday afternoon in Retiro isn't a quiet nature walk; it's closer to the entire city's living room relocating outdoors, complete with multi-generational picnics that last for hours, buskers, rowing boats on the lake, couples, dog walkers, and the specific Spanish talent for occupying public space for an entire afternoon without ever seeming to be in a hurry to leave.
This unhurried quality is the whole point, and it connects to a broader Spanish cultural rhythm around time that outsiders, especially those from more schedule-driven cultures, take genuine adjustment to internalise. Parks aren't destinations you visit for a defined thirty-minute walk; they're spaces you settle into, the way you'd settle into a friend's living room, staying for however long the conversation or the weather or the wine holds out.
The midday park nap tradition, an informal cousin of siesta culture, remains genuinely visible in Spanish parks, particularly in summer when the heat makes an afternoon lie-down under a shady tree a rational response to conditions rather than a sign of laziness. Locals do this without self-consciousness, and visitors who try it themselves usually report it as one of the more quietly delightful cultural adjustments of living in Spain — permission, effectively, to just stop for a while in public without needing a reason.
Not every Spanish park carries Retiro's festival energy, and it's worth distinguishing the flagship destination parks from the smaller neighbourhood green spaces (parques de barrio) that dot every Spanish city, which tend to have their own quieter, more locally-specific rhythm — older residents on benches in the morning, children after school, a completely different, more intimate social texture than the big Sunday crowds at the marquee locations.
Myanmar offers something genuinely rare: green space that still carries unbroken spiritual weight, where sitting quietly under a stupa at dusk connects you, even briefly, to something larger than a pleasant afternoon outdoors. Spain offers the opposite gift — public space fully, joyfully secularised into pure communal pleasure, no reverence required, just good company and however many hours you feel like spending there. If you want green space that changes something in you, Myanmar's pagoda grounds will do it, quietly, without asking. If you want green space that simply makes life better on an ordinary Sunday, nowhere does it with more warmth or less pretension than Spain.
Reddit r/myanmar — "Watched a Western tourist point his feet directly at a Buddha statue at Shwedagon while checking his phone. The look from an older woman nearby said everything words couldn't."
Reddit r/madrid — "Moved here from a country where napping in public would get you arrested for vagrancy. Took me a month to relax into doing it myself. Now I don't understand how I lived any other way."
expat.com Madrid forum — "Retiro on a Sunday in June is basically the whole city having a collective, extremely long lunch outdoors. Plan for hours, not minutes."
Neither country is going to explain its green space etiquette to you patiently, because to locals it isn't etiquette, it's just what these spaces are for — reverence in one case, unhurried communal joy in the other. Bring Spanish Sunday-picnic energy to Shwedagon's marble grounds and you'll cause real, quiet offense. Bring Myanmar's hushed respect to a Madrid park on a June afternoon and you'll simply miss the entire, glorious point of the place. Learn which register the space demands before you arrive. Both will reward you generously, in completely different currencies, for getting it right.
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Photo by Prince Kumar via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.