🇵🇰 Pakistan vs 🇹🇿 Tanzania — City Transport & Commuting Culture By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
People ask me which city has the worst traffic I've ever sat in, expecting me to say something predictable like Lagos or Jakarta, and then look faintly betrayed when I say Karachi, followed immediately by Dar es Salaam, followed by a long pause while I try to remember if I'm confusing the two, which itself tells you everything you need to know about both.
Neither city has a metro system that could be described, even by its own tourism board, as adequate. Both have solved this with a fleet of privately owned minibuses driven by men who treat lane markings as a personal insult. The difference is that Pakistan does its chaos with a horn section and Tanzania does its chaos with a colour-coding system nobody bothered to write down anywhere official. I have used both to get to job interviews. I was late to both. I do not recommend either, and I recommend both, which is the only honest thing I can say about commuting in either country.
🇵🇰 Pakistan
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Negotiate the rickshaw fare before you get in, not after | Assume the meter means anything — most don't have one, and the ones that do are decorative |
| Hire a driver if you're staying more than a month | Try to drive yourself in Karachi traffic in month one; you will cry |
| Use ride-hailing apps like Careem for anything after dark | Hail a taxi off the street alone at night, especially as a woman |
| Budget an extra 40 minutes for any cross-city trip, always | Trust a quoted arrival time from anyone, including the app |
🇹🇿 Tanzania
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Learn your dala-dala's colour and route number before you board | Expect a timetable, a map, or anyone to apologise for the lack of either |
| Keep small notes on you; conductors never have change | Sit near the door if you're not getting off soon — you'll be climbed over, repeatedly |
| Use Bolt or Uber for late nights or long distances | Assume the dala-dala will stop just because you're standing near the road |
| Ask locals which route serves your neighbourhood — nobody else knows | Expect the BRT's future phases to solve everything currently wrong |
Karachi's public transport is, on paper, extensive. Minibuses cover nearly the whole city, supplemented by dedicated coaches and a genuinely enormous fleet of auto-rickshaws that will take you anywhere for a price that changes based on your accent, your visible watch, and how long you've lived there. In practice, this means Karachi runs on a transport network that is comprehensive and almost entirely undocumented, which is a very Pakistani solution to a very Pakistani problem: everyone knows how it works, nobody has written it down, and foreigners are simply expected to absorb the knowledge by suffering through it, the same way you learn which floor tiles are loose in a rented flat.
The newer Green Line BRT is a genuine improvement and I will say something nice about it exactly once: it is fast, it is clean, and it connects Surjani Town to Saddar in a way that makes you briefly optimistic about the rest of the network, before you remember it is one route in a city of seventeen million people who mostly still ride minibuses that brake for nothing and no one.
For expats, the sane move is a hired driver, and I mean this as someone who spent her first fortnight in Karachi insisting she'd manage on rickshaws alone, out of some misplaced backpacker pride, before realising that every single fare negotiation was costing me more in dignity than money. Ride-hailing apps like Careem have made things dramatically more survivable, particularly for women travelling after dark, when a metered taxi with an app-verified driver is not a luxury, it is the difference between getting home and becoming a cautionary anecdote at your next dinner party. Metro Cab, the more reputable taxi service, is worth the marginally higher fare for exactly this reason. What nobody tells you before you arrive is that traffic in Karachi doesn't ebb and flow so much as exist permanently at "bad," with occasional upgrades to "biblical," usually timed precisely to whatever meeting you cannot afford to miss.
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Dar es Salaam's dala-dalas are, structurally, small miracles: privately run minibuses that sprang up because the formal transport system simply couldn't cope, named after the old five-shilling fare, and now running with a frequency that beats most European light rail, which is either impressive or an indictment of European light rail, depending on your mood. They are colour-coded by route, which sounds sensible until you realise the colours are not published anywhere you can consult in advance, so the actual system for learning them is standing at a stop looking lost until a stranger takes pity on you, which, credit where due, someone always does.
Expats mostly give up on dala-dalas within the first month, not because they're unsafe, but because the sheer physical logistics of squeezing into a minibus built for fourteen people currently holding twenty-two, with a conductor hanging out the open door shouting the destination like an auctioneer, is more adventure than most relocation packages account for. Most expat households eventually get a car and, ideally, a driver who already knows which roads flood the moment it rains, which in Dar means most roads, most rain.
The city is building the DART bus rapid transit system in phases, and the completed sections are, again, genuinely good — clean, ticketed, air-conditioned in a climate that makes air conditioning a human right rather than an amenity. But it covers a fraction of the city, and until the remaining phases arrive, which locals discuss with the weary patience of people who've heard "next year" for over a decade, the dala-dala remains the actual backbone of how Dar es Salaam moves. Uber and Bolt exist and are sensibly used by anyone who can afford them, mostly to avoid exactly the chaos described above.
If you forced me to rank disasters, Karachi's is louder and more dangerous, Dar es Salaam's is more chaotic and more communal, and honestly that distinction matters more than it sounds like it should. Karachi traffic will actively try to kill you; Dar es Salaam's dala-dala system will simply overwhelm you with proximity to strangers and the smell of diesel until you develop a strange, Stockholm-syndrome fondness for it. I'd rather be inconvenienced by a system that's at least trying, badly, in good faith, than menaced by one that's given up trying entirely. Tanzania wins, on points, mostly for vibes. Pakistan gets full marks for the Green Line and negative marks for absolutely everything surrounding it.
Reddit r/expats — paraphrased: three months in Karachi and still hasn't figured out the "correct" rickshaw fare, just an acceptable range of overpaying
Quora — paraphrased: a longtime Karachi resident explaining that the meter existing is not the same as the meter being used
Internations Dar es Salaam — paraphrased: an expat admitting they now identify dala-dalas by sound before they identify them by colour
Neither of these cities will hand you a transport card, a map, or an apology, and that is, in its own way, the whole lesson of relocating anywhere that isn't built around the assumption you'll show up eventually with expectations. You adapt, you learn the unofficial rules faster than the official ones because there mostly aren't official ones, and you develop a genuinely bizarre nostalgia for both systems the moment you leave. I still occasionally miss the particular chaos of Karachi rush hour, in the way you miss a difficult relative — from a safe distance, and only in small doses. Tanzania, at least, lets you laugh about it in real time.
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Photo by Vishnu Panday via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.