🇹🇩🇳🇬 Chad & Nigeria By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
N'Djamena and Lagos are both capitals — well, Lagos isn't technically the capital anymore, Abuja is, but nobody tells Lagos that and Lagos has no intention of listening — and both sit in the same rough region of the continent, and that is roughly where the similarities end. N'Djamena moves like a city that has made peace with its own pace: measured, reserved in public, conversations pitched low, strangers given space without being asked for it. Lagos moves like the entire metropolitan population collectively decided silence was a personal insult, and set about correcting that, loudly, from six in the morning until well past midnight.
I love Lagos the way you love a friend who exhausts you — completely, and with reservations I'll voice extremely loudly, because that's the only volume Lagos respects. Chad, by contrast, taught me to miss noise, which is not something I expected to learn at this stage of my life.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Lower your voice in public spaces, markets included — loud foreigners stand out immediately and not favourably | Assume Western-level casual physical contact is fine; greetings and personal space norms are more formal than you'd expect |
| Greet people properly before any transaction or request — skipping the greeting ritual reads as genuinely rude | Rush any interaction; patience in public exchanges is read as basic respect, not inefficiency |
| Dress conservatively, especially outside the capital — modesty norms are taken seriously across most of the country | Wear anything you'd wear to a beach club; it will draw exactly the attention you don't want |
| Ask permission before photographing people in public — it matters more here than in many neighbouring countries | Photograph government buildings, checkpoints, or security personnel; this can cause real problems, not just awkwardness |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Match the energy — a flat, quiet demeanour in Lagos public life reads as unfriendly or evasive, not polite | Expect queues to function like orderly British queues; the system is more fluid and more assertive |
| Haggle, argue, and negotiate loudly and visibly when the situation calls for it — it's normal, not aggressive | Take raised voices in a market dispute as a sign of actual anger; volume is a negotiating tool, not always emotion |
| Build in generous time for everything involving traffic — "Lagos time" is its own unit of measurement | Assume a stated meeting time is the actual start time; arriving exactly on time can mean arriving first and waiting |
| Embrace the directness — Nigerians will tell you exactly what they think, and expect the same back | Mistake directness for hostility; it's usually just honesty with the volume turned up |
Chad's public culture, shaped by a mix of Sahelian and Central African traditions, rural majority demographics, and one of the lowest urbanisation rates on the continent according to World Bank data, runs on a kind of deliberate social restraint that catches loud foreigners off guard, usually within their first week. Conversations in markets, offices, even disputes, happen at a volume and pace that would read, in Lagos, as suspiciously calm.
Greeting rituals matter enormously here — skip the proper exchange of pleasantries before launching into your actual request, and you've already undermined the interaction, however polite your tone. Dress codes, particularly for women, run more conservative than much of West Africa, shaped by the country's significant Muslim population in the north and a generally modest cultural baseline nationwide. None of this is the "exotic reserve" some travel writer would frame it as — it is simply a different, equally valid register of public life, one built around a much smaller, more rural, more interconnected social fabric than Lagos's sprawling twenty-million-plus metropolis could ever sustain.
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Lagos, on the other hand, operates on the principle that silence is suspicious and energy is currency. NISER's own research on urban behaviour patterns in Nigeria's major cities repeatedly notes the city's distinctively high-tempo public culture — the traffic negotiations conducted entirely through horn patterns and hand gestures, the market haggling performed as theatre, the sheer volume at which ordinary daily business gets conducted, not because anyone is particularly angry, but because volume is how Lagos signals engagement.
This extends into every public interaction: queue "discipline" is more about assertive positioning than orderly lines, meeting times are elastic in a way that infuriates first-time visitors and barely registers for residents who've built traffic buffers into every plan, and directness in conversation — being told bluntly that your plan is bad, your price is wrong, your excuse is weak — is simply how Lagosians communicate, stripped of the hedging softer cultures might apply. The Lagos State government's own traffic data makes clear just how much of daily life gets swallowed by commute time, and the public behaviour culture has adapted entirely around that reality: loud, fast, assertive, because passivity gets you nowhere in a city moving at this speed.
Chad will make you a calmer, more patient person almost against your will. Lagos will make you a louder, faster, more combat-ready negotiator, also almost against your will. I know which version of myself I prefer, and infuriatingly, it's the Lagos one — exhausting, unreasonable, magnificent. Chad taught me restraint. Lagos taught me to actually survive.
Internations Lagos — paraphrased: a newly relocated consultant said nothing prepared them for realising a car horn in Lagos can mean at least six different things depending on pattern and duration, none of which are taught anywhere.
Reddit r/Nigeria — paraphrased: a thread where a diaspora returnee admitted they'd forgotten how to haggle properly after a decade abroad, and got visibly schooled by a market vendor within their first week back.
expat.com N'Djamena — paraphrased: an aid worker noted that after eighteen months in Chad, a short work trip to Lagos left them "sensorially overwhelmed within an hour," despite having lived in cities before.
Neither of these public cultures is more "civilised" than the other, whatever smug assumption you walked in with. Chad's restraint comes from a society that has organised itself around patience and proper greeting as genuine social infrastructure. Nigeria's volume comes from a society that has organised itself around speed, assertiveness, and twenty million people refusing to be quietly ignored. Pick whichever exhausts you in a way you can live with. I picked loud. I regret nothing.
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Photo by Genaro Servín via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.