🇨🇷🇹🇹 Costa Rica & Trinidad and Tobago By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Every country eventually reveals its true values through where it chooses to spend a Saturday, and few contrasts are as stark as this one. Costa Rica worships the feria del agricultor — a sprawling, sun-baked weekend market where buying your week's produce is treated as a civic duty bordering on a sacrament. Trinidad, meanwhile, has made the mall into something closer to a national pastime, a cool, bright, thoroughly air-conditioned answer to a climate that frankly deserves to be air-conditioned out of existence.
Both countries will tell you their way is simply "normal." Both are, of course, performing a set of values as much as a shopping trip — one romanticising the earth, the other romanticising the escalator. I've spent entirely too much money in both places finding out which one actually suits a person who hates crowds and loves a bargain.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Get to the feria early — the good tomatoes are gone by 9am and everyone knows it but you | Don't haggle aggressively at the feria; gentle negotiation is fine, treating it like a souk is not |
| Bring cash and a reusable bag — card machines are patchy and plastic bags cost extra | Don't expect feria vendors to hold produce for you "until tomorrow" — this is not a layaway scheme |
| Learn vendors' names if you're going to be a regular — loyalty is noticed and rewarded with better cuts | Don't assume malls are only for tourists — many Costa Ricans genuinely prefer them for anything beyond groceries |
| Try the smaller, neighbourhood ferias, not just the big San José ones — less crowded, often cheaper | Don't show up to a feria in your gym kit expecting speed — this is a browse, not a sprint |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Treat the mall as a social occasion — "liming" at the mall is a real, respected activity, not a consolation prize | Don't rush through — malls here are destinations, and treating them like an errand reads as oddly antisocial |
| Visit the municipal markets for the best produce and fish, even if you mostly shop at malls otherwise | Don't assume online shopping has replaced in-person retail — import duties and shipping delays mean plenty still shop local |
| Dress reasonably well for mall outings — it's noticed more than you'd expect | Don't expect fixed, published prices at the municipal market — a bit of negotiation is normal and even welcomed |
| Budget for parking and food court time — a "quick trip" rarely stays quick | Don't be surprised by queues for customs-cleared parcels if you order internationally — it's part of the process |
The feria del agricultor is not merely where Costa Ricans buy produce; it is where a significant chunk of the national self-image gets reinforced weekly. Walk through one in San José or any provincial town on a Saturday morning and you'll find an entire social ecosystem — farmers who've driven down from the hills before dawn, retirees doing their weekly rounds with trolleys, young families treating it as the morning's entertainment. The produce is genuinely superior to supermarket equivalents, and everyone involved seems faintly aware of this moral advantage and not shy about implying it.
Malls exist, certainly — the Multiplaza and Avenida Escazú developments are enormous, glossy, and packed on weekends — but they occupy a different psychological slot. Ticos go to the mall for clothes, electronics, cinema, the odd treat; they go to the feria for anything that constitutes an actual meal. Suggesting a mall could replace a feria is the kind of category error that gets you a patient, slightly pitying correction.
What surprises newcomers most is the sheer physical stamina the feria demands: hours on your feet, in full sun, carrying bags that get progressively heavier. There's no climate control, no polite queueing system, no app to skip the line. You do it the way it's been done for generations, because the alternative — bagged, trucked, supermarket produce — is understood by nearly everyone to be a lesser product, chosen out of convenience rather than preference.
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Trinidad's relationship with the mall is one of the more honest adaptations I've seen to a genuinely brutal tropical climate. When the alternative to shopping indoors is standing in 33-degree heat with 85 percent humidity, air conditioning stops being a luxury and starts being the entire point. Malls like Trincity and MovieTowne aren't just retail — they're where people lime (the glorious Trinidadian verb for hanging out with no fixed agenda), eat, watch films, and socialise for entire afternoons without necessarily buying anything at all.
This doesn't mean markets have disappeared — the Port of Spain City Gate market and various municipal markets around the islands remain essential for fish, produce, and the kind of specific ingredients a supermarket simply won't stock. But they occupy a more practical, less romanticised niche than Costa Rica's ferias. Nobody's claiming moral superiority by shopping at the market here; it's simply where you get what the mall doesn't sell.
Online shopping adds an extra wrinkle particular to island economies: ordering internationally means navigating customs, duties, and shipping times that can stretch into weeks, so a thriving culture of "when you going States, bring back for me" persists alongside everything else — a workaround so normalised it barely registers as one anymore.
Costa Rica's feria culture produces better tomatoes and a stronger sense of ritual; Trinidad's mall culture produces a more honest accommodation with a genuinely hostile climate and a more socially elastic idea of what shopping is even for. If you want virtue baked into your grocery run, go Costa Rican. If you want air conditioning, good company, and the freedom to spend four hours somewhere without the faint judgment of having "only" bought a phone case, Trinidad has you covered.
I'll call it for Trinidad, mostly out of self-interest — I have strong, well-documented opinions about humidity, and a culture that's built an entire social institution around escaping it has correctly identified its priorities.
Reddit r/CostaRica — paraphrased: tried to haggle like I was at a Mexican mercado and the vendor just looked faintly disappointed in me. Lesson learned.
Internations Port of Spain — paraphrased: spent five hours at the mall and bought nothing. Nobody batted an eye. Apparently that's just Saturday.
expat.com San José — paraphrased: showed up to the feria at 10am thinking that was "early." Everything good was already gone. 7am is the real start time.
Both countries have quietly built an entire social contract around their preferred shopping venue, and both will be mildly baffled if you don't eventually surrender to it. Costa Rica wants you up at dawn, bags in hand, participating in something that's part commerce and part community theatre. Trinidad wants you cool, comfortable, and in no particular hurry to leave. Pick the one that matches your tolerance for sunstroke, and you'll fit in faster than any language course could manage.
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Photo by Thilina Alagiyawanna via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.