🇮🇳 India 🇮🇩 Indonesia By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
There are cultures that treat a public holiday as a single day off, and then there are India and Indonesia, which treat the entire concept of "holiday" as something to be approached with the kind of ambition most countries reserve for infrastructure projects. Both nations run festival calendars dense enough to make a Western office worker's "paid time off" allowance look like a rounding error. Both also, within that shared enthusiasm, arrive at something close to opposite philosophies about what a festival is actually for.
India's festival culture is maximalist, loud, and constant — lights, colour, noise, an entire street given over to celebration with the volume turned deliberately, joyfully up. Indonesia's, at least on the island that gets the most attention from outsiders, includes a day so quiet it is, by law, nearly silent. I have celebrated Diwali in a Mumbai apartment block that did not sleep for three nights. I have also spent a Nyepi in Bali where I was legally required to stay indoors with the lights off. Both were among the most intense things I have ever experienced on a calendar.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Budget real time off around Diwali, Holi, and regional festivals — business genuinely slows | Assume office or shop hours will hold during major festival weeks, even if not officially closed |
| Accept sweets, invitations, and greetings generously — festival inclusion is sincere | Wear white to Holi unless you're fully prepared to never wear it again |
| Learn which festivals matter most in your specific region — India's calendar is not uniform | Book travel during peak festival season without expecting serious price and crowd surges |
| Join in where invited — participation is welcomed, not just tolerated | Set off fireworks without checking current local restrictions, which shift year to year |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Plan well ahead for Nyepi in Bali — nearly everything, including the airport, closes | Leave your accommodation during Nyepi — it is legally enforced, not a polite suggestion |
| Respect temple ceremony road closures without complaint; they're common and non-negotiable | Wear revealing clothing at a temple ceremony, regardless of how casual the setting looks |
| Learn that Indonesia's holiday calendar reflects six official religions, not just one | Assume Bali's Hindu-majority customs represent Indonesia's Muslim-majority national culture |
| Ask locally about ogoh-ogoh parades and other pre-Nyepi events — they're genuinely spectacular | Photograph a private ceremony without clearly being invited to do so |
India's festival density is not an exaggeration tourists invent to sound well-travelled. The Ministry of Culture's own national calendar, layered against state-specific and regional observances, produces a year where some meaningful celebration is almost always either approaching or just finishing somewhere in the country, and the Press Information Bureau's own festival-season advisories exist precisely because national infrastructure — transport, logistics, office operations — genuinely bends around Diwali and Holi in ways that catch newcomers off guard every single year.
Diwali, the festival of lights, is the one most foreigners have heard of, and nothing about hearing of it prepares you for actually living through it in a dense urban neighbourhood: lights strung across every balcony, fireworks continuing well past any hour a Western city would tolerate, sweets arriving from neighbours you've never formally met, an entire city collectively deciding that sleep is a secondary priority for several nights running. Holi brings its own chaos, color-drenched and joyfully anarchic, and the warning about white clothing is not hyperbole — it is the single most repeated, least heeded piece of advice in every expat forum thread on the subject.
What struck me most, beyond the sheer scale, was the sincerity of inclusion. Festivals in India are not performed at outsiders as spectacle. They're genuinely, warmly extended as invitation — sweets pressed into your hands, neighbours insisting you join the celebration rather than merely observe it from a respectful distance. The volume and chaos can read as overwhelming to a newly arrived foreigner used to holidays as quiet, private occasions. Stop resisting the volume, and it reveals itself as one of the most generous forms of hospitality I've encountered anywhere — the entire street deciding you belong in the celebration too.
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Indonesia's holiday calendar reflects something genuinely distinctive among large nations: official recognition of six religions, producing a national holiday schedule, per the Ministry of Religious Affairs, that spans Islamic, Christian, Hindu, Buddhist, and Confucian observances across a country of enormous regional and religious variation. Most of Indonesia operates on a rhythm shaped heavily by its Muslim majority, with Eid al-Fitr producing the country's largest annual mass-travel event as millions return to hometowns for mudik, the homecoming tradition.
Bali, where the foreign gaze lands disproportionately, runs on a different religious calendar entirely, and Nyepi — the Hindu Balinese Day of Silence marking the lunar new year — is the single most dramatic public-holiday experience I've had anywhere on earth. For roughly twenty-four hours, the entire island shuts down: no flights in or out, no vehicles on the roads, no lights after dark, no loud activity of any kind, enforced not by polite custom but by pecalang, traditional community security who genuinely do patrol and genuinely will ask you to go back inside. The Bali Provincial Tourism Office's visitor guidance on this is explicit and firm, and foreign residents who treat it as optional learn otherwise, fast.
The night before Nyepi, by contrast, is pure spectacle: ogoh-ogoh parades featuring enormous, elaborately constructed demon effigies, carried through the streets and often ceremonially burned to drive out evil spirits before the island falls completely silent the following day. The whiplash between that loud, fire-lit procession and the absolute stillness that follows captures something genuinely unique about Balinese Hindu cosmology, and it's a sequence no other place I've lived has come close to replicating.
India's festival culture says more is more, constantly, joyfully, for days at a stretch. Indonesia's — at least Bali's particular contribution to it — says the opposite is sometimes exactly as powerful: a single enforced day of total stillness that hits harder for how rare and how total it is. Both reflect genuinely deep spiritual and cultural commitments rather than performance for outsiders, and both demand real respect and real planning from anyone living through them. I'm giving this one to Indonesia, on the strength of Nyepi alone — I have never experienced anything else, anywhere, that made silence feel that loud.
Reddit r/india — "Wore a white kurta to my first Holi because nobody explicitly told me not to. Should have assumed. The color does not come out, ever."
Internations Mumbai — "My office 'closed for one day' for Diwali turned into a genuine week of reduced hours, deliveries, and basically everything. Plan accordingly, every year, forever."
expat.com Bali forum — "Nyepi sounds like a nice quiet day until you realize the airport is also closed, the hospital runs emergency-only, and the silence is enforced by actual patrols. Respect it completely."
Both countries, in their wildly different ways, are making the same quiet argument against the modern instinct to treat holidays as mere scheduling inconveniences to be minimized around productivity. India says a festival deserves days, noise, sweets, and total communal immersion. Indonesia says, at least once a year on one particular island, that a festival can also mean the opposite — total silence, total stillness, enforced with total seriousness. Arrive expecting either to be a single day crossed off a calendar, and you will miss, completely, what the rest of the country already understands: some things are worth doing properly, loudly or silently, and not one bit in between.
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Photo by Suhit Panchal via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.