🇸🇪 Sweden 🇳🇵 Nepal
By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Every country has an opinion about your body, it's just a question of whether that opinion comes with a subsidy attached. Sweden has turned physical exercise into a line item on your payslip — a genuine, government-sanctioned, tax-free allowance specifically so you'll go sweat somewhere — while Nepal is in the middle of a fitness boom so recent and so urban that half the population still associates a "gym" with something rich people in Kathmandu do between bouts of trekking a mountain for free. Both countries take movement seriously. Only one of them has built a bureaucracy around it.
I've lived in fourteen countries, which means I've been handed fourteen different cultural scripts about what a "normal" relationship with exercise looks like, and Sweden's is the most administratively tidy one I've encountered. The friskvårdsbidrag — a tax-free wellness allowance most employers offer, capped at 5,000 SEK a year — isn't a fringe perk buried in an HR handbook nobody reads. It's a known, expected, actively-discussed-at-parties benefit, the kind of thing Swedes will casually ask a new hire about within the first week, the way other cultures ask about your commute. Nepal has no such institution, and frankly doesn't need one — when your capital city is ringed by some of the tallest mountains on the planet, "fitness culture" has historically meant walking absolutely everywhere, often uphill, often while carrying something heavier than your own body weight. What's changed, and changed fast, is the arrival of the commercial gym as a status symbol in Kathmandu and Pokhara, aimed squarely at a rising middle class that wants air conditioning, mirrors, and a protein shake with their exertion, thank you very much.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Ask HR about your friskvårdsbidrag in week one — unclaimed allowance is just a pay rise you declined | Be surprised when a 10am meeting gets rescheduled around someone's lunchtime gympass — training time is sacred, not negotiable |
| Join a "friskis & svettis" class at least once — it's a genuine national institution, not a tourist gimmick | Chat up strangers in the gym sauna — eyes forward, comfortable silence, this isn't the place |
| Expect colleagues to casually mention their Wednesday run or Sunday ski as normal conversation, not humble-bragging | Assume the allowance only covers a gym — it often stretches to massage, yoga, even green fees, so check before you assume |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Treat a trek or a long uphill walk as your "workout" — it counts, and it's usually more punishing than any treadmill | Expect a Western-style 24-hour gym outside Kathmandu or Pokhara's wealthier neighbourhoods — infrastructure is concentrated and recent |
| Budget for gym membership as a genuine discretionary spend — for many, it's a visible marker of rising income, not a given | Assume everyone your age has "always" gone to a gym — for most, this is a first-generation habit, arriving fast but not universal |
| Compliment someone's new gym routine sincerely — it's often a recent, proud, hard-won lifestyle change, not background noise | Underestimate the informal fitness economy — roadside calisthenics groups and community football are enormous, unbranded, and unbothered by trends |
Ask a Swede why their company pays for their gym membership and you'll get a slightly baffled look, as if you'd asked why the office provides chairs. The friskvårdsbidrag isn't framed as generosity; it's framed as basic occupational infrastructure, on the theory — supported, Swedes will tell you, by actual public health data — that a workforce that exercises costs the healthcare system less and takes fewer sick days. The amount is capped, currently around 5,000 SEK a year, and it's genuinely tax-free on both sides, which means neither the company nor the employee loses anything to the taxman for the privilege of you doing a spin class. What's more culturally revealing than the subsidy itself is how unremarkable it is. Meetings get scheduled around gym windows. "Fredagsfika" — the Friday office coffee ritual — coexists peacefully with someone leaving at 4pm sharp for a run, no eyebrows raised, because leaving on time in Sweden is a feature, not a confession.
Then there's Friskis&Svettis — "Healthy and Sweaty" — a genuinely nationwide, nonprofit exercise movement founded in the 1970s that somehow became a load-bearing pillar of Swedish social life, offering everything from aerobics to strength classes at prices that undercut commercial gyms specifically so cost is never the excuse. And the sauna, where it exists in a Swedish gym, has its own strict, unspoken register: you sit, you sweat, you do not make conversation, and you absolutely do not bring your phone. It's not unfriendliness. It's just filed under "private time," the same drawer Swedes keep most things in.
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Nepal's relationship with physical fitness has, for most of its history, needed no gym at all — when your daily life involves navigating Kathmandu's hills on foot, or your village sits three hours' walk from the nearest road, cardiovascular fitness isn't a hobby, it's an ambient condition of being alive. What's new, and genuinely fascinating to watch unfold, is the last decade's explosion of commercial gyms across Kathmandu Valley and tourist-adjacent Pokhara, driven by a rising urban middle class with disposable income and, increasingly, sedentary desk jobs that their parents' generation simply didn't have. Local reporting has tracked fitness clubs seeing a genuine surge in demand, and — tellingly — the demographic creeping upward, no longer just twenty-somethings chasing a look, but older professionals chasing the blood pressure numbers their doctor mentioned.
This is a first-generation trend, and it shows in the texture of it: gym membership is discussed as aspiration and achievement in a way Swedes would find almost quaint, because in Sweden the gym habit is inherited, assumed, background noise. In Nepal, walking into a gym for the first time, at thirty-five, with a membership card in your wallet, can genuinely be a small personal milestone worth mentioning to your family. Outside the gyms, the older, unbranded fitness economy hasn't gone anywhere — roadside calisthenics groups doing pull-ups on whatever bar is available, informal football matches on any flat surface that'll tolerate it, entire mornings organised around a shared uphill walk that would put most Swedish gym-goers on the floor.
Sweden wins on infrastructure, full stop — subsidised, destigmatised, woven into the working week so thoroughly that skipping your workout needs more justification than attending it. But Nepal wins, hands down, on sheer unbothered authenticity: nobody in Kathmandu needed a tax incentive to walk a mountain, and the newer gym culture arriving on top of that older, harder-won fitness has an earnestness Sweden's decades-old system has long since metabolised into routine. If you want to be gently coerced into wellness by your payslip, move to Stockholm. If you want to remember that fitness used to just mean surviving your commute, Kathmandu will remind you within the first uphill block.
Reddit r/sweden — paraphrased: a new arrival asked why their offer letter mentioned "friskvårdsbidrag" and got seventeen replies within an hour, several of them mildly outraged the company hadn't explained it during onboarding, since it's essentially free money.
Expat.com Stockholm forum — paraphrased: a member described accidentally greeting an acquaintance in the gym sauna and being met with polite, total silence, later learning that sauna time is treated as close to sacred solitude, chat strictly optional and generally unwelcome.
Reddit r/Nepal — paraphrased: a commenter noted that a decent gym membership in central Kathmandu now costs a real chunk of an entry-level monthly salary, and that showing up consistently is treated by friends as a genuine, admirable discipline, not a given.
Sweden has made fitness so frictionless it's nearly invisible — subsidised, scheduled, and slightly boring in the way only a well-run system can be. Nepal is watching fitness become visible for the first time, a genuine marker of aspiration layered on top of a population that never stopped moving because the landscape never let them. Neither approach is more virtuous than the other; they're just answers to different questions. Sweden asked "how do we keep a comfortable population healthy." Nepal is asking "what does health look like once walking six miles a day stops being mandatory." Pack trainers either way. You'll need them for very different reasons.
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Photo by Asso Myron via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.