🇨🇺 Cuba vs 🇸🇻 El Salvador — Public Behaviour Norms
By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Cuba has invented, out of five decades of scarcity, possibly the most sophisticated invisible queuing system on Earth — a system so intricate it operates with no visible line, no ticket machine, and total mutual comprehension among everyone standing vaguely near a doorway. El Salvador, meanwhile, has spent the last several years transforming from one of the most visibly tense public spaces in the hemisphere into something closer to eerily, deliberately calm, and the locals still aren't quite sure how to talk about it.
I have stood in a Havana bread queue that did not look like a queue, asked "¿el último?" like everyone else, and been quietly, correctly slotted into position eleven by a system with no enforcement mechanism except collective memory. I have also sat in a San Salvador plaza at 9pm, a scenario that would have been unthinkable a decade ago, watching teenagers loiter with the specific boredom of teenagers everywhere, and felt the strange vertigo of a country actively renegotiating what "in public" is allowed to mean.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Ask "¿el último?" (who's last?) when joining any queue — it's the entire system | Assume there's no order just because you can't see a line |
| Speak loudly and expressively — animated conversation is the default volume | Mistake volume for aggression — it almost never is |
| Greet strangers and neighbours warmly, even briefly, in shared spaces | Be shocked by physical closeness — personal space is a smaller concept here |
| Carry small bills and expect improvisation around official rules | Expect rigid punctuality — "ahora" can mean anytime from now to next Tuesday |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Enjoy the plazas and parks at night — public space has genuinely reopened | Assume old warnings about after-dark movement still fully apply everywhere |
| Form an actual physical line — Salvadorans queue in a conventional, visible way | Cut a queue — it's noticed and disapproved of more than you'd expect |
| Dress reasonably neatly in public — appearance is taken seriously here | Photograph police, military, or security checkpoints without asking first |
| Keep voices moderate in enclosed public spaces like buses and offices | Be too loud in shared indoor spaces — it reads as inconsiderate, not friendly |
Cuban public behaviour runs on a set of rules so unwritten that most Cubans couldn't fully explain them to you even if you asked, and yet every single person on a given street corner is operating from the identical rulebook. The queue — "la cola" — is the purest expression of this: there is rarely a physical line, rarely a sign, sometimes not even a discernible destination, just a loose cluster of people who each know, with total confidence, exactly who arrived before them and exactly who they're waiting behind. You ask "¿el último?", someone raises a hand or says "yo", and you have now been silently, permanently assigned your place in a system with zero paperwork and zero tolerance for cheats. Cut this queue and you will discover, immediately and vocally, that scarcity has bred a fierce collective memory for order.
Beyond the queue, Cuban public life is loud in a way that unsettles people from quieter cultures before they recalibrate. Conversations happen at a volume that would read as an argument almost anywhere else, gestures are large, doorways and porches function as extensions of the living room, and neighbours conduct entire relationships through open windows across a street. This isn't a breakdown of manners — it's an entirely different manners system, one built around a level of collective, ambient closeness that decades of dense housing and limited private space have made not just tolerable but genuinely warm. Personal space, as a Western urban planner would define it, essentially does not exist on a Cuban street, and trying to import it will just make you look aloof.
What does carry real weight is greeting etiquette: failing to say "buenos días" to a shopkeeper, a neighbour, or even a stranger sharing your queue reads as a small but real rudeness. Punctuality, meanwhile, is a soft suggestion rather than a rule, and getting genuinely upset about it marks you out as a foreigner faster than your accent does.
The Morning Brief
Enjoying this? Get it in your inbox.
El Salvador's public behaviour norms are in the middle of a strange, still-unfinished transformation. For years, the operating assumption in San Salvador and beyond was to minimise time outdoors after dark, avoid lingering in parks, and treat public space with a wariness that shaped everything from bus schedules to where families let teenagers hang around. The country's aggressive, controversial security crackdown of the past several years has changed the visible texture of public life dramatically — plazas that were once empty by early evening now genuinely fill with families, food vendors, and teenagers doing nothing in particular, the universal signature of a public space that has become safe enough to be boring in.
That said, the underlying formality of Salvadoran public conduct hasn't shifted nearly as fast as the security situation has. Queuing here looks like queuing almost anywhere else in the hemisphere — an actual visible line, respected in order, with cutting treated as a small social offence rather than the mortal sin it would be in Havana, but noticed all the same. Indoor public volume is moderate and closer to what a Western European visitor would expect; the expressive loudness of Cuban street life doesn't really translate here, and raising your voice in a bank or a bus is more likely to draw stares than solidarity.
Appearance matters more than visitors expect — Salvadorans dress with a degree of care in public that reads, to the underdressed backpacker, as mildly intimidating, and scruffiness is more likely to be read as disrespect than authenticity. And despite the genuine improvement in public safety, a lingering caution remains embedded in everyday behaviour: photographing checkpoints, uniformed officials, or anything resembling state infrastructure is still a habit locals avoid on reflex, security improvements notwithstanding.
Cuba's public behaviour is a masterclass in collective, unwritten order surviving total institutional scarcity — a queue with no line, a street with no boundaries, and a warmth that makes up for both. El Salvador is a country visibly, deliberately re-learning how to use its own public space after years of avoiding it, with a formality and caution that hasn't quite caught up to the calm evenings now genuinely available in its plazas. Cuba wins on sheer improvisational charm. El Salvador wins on the more moving story: a public square being handed back to the people who live around it.
Reddit r/cuba — paraphrased: spent my first three days in Havana walking past what I thought were just groups of people standing around, before realising every single one was a queue and I'd been unknowingly cutting in line all week.
Internations San Salvador — paraphrased: moved here expecting to stay indoors after 6pm out of habit and was genuinely confused the first time I saw a family having ice cream in the plaza at 9pm like it was nothing.
expat.com El Salvador forum — paraphrased: got a firm but polite reminder from a security guard not to film near a checkpoint, even though the area felt completely normal and safe otherwise — old habits die hard on both sides.
Cuba teaches you that order doesn't need enforcement if the collective memory is strong enough, and that volume isn't the same thing as conflict. El Salvador teaches you something rarer: what it looks like when a country's public behaviour is still catching up to a genuinely improved reality, one relearned evening in the plaza at a time. Go to Cuba to watch a functioning system with no rulebook. Go to El Salvador to watch a rulebook being quietly, hopefully rewritten in real time.
Subscriber Only
Subscribe to The Alignment Times and get every article delivered to your inbox.
Photo by .M.Q Huang via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.