🇯🇵 🇮🇸 Japan vs Iceland By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Japan and Iceland have arrived, via wildly different routes, at the same national conclusion: the best way to spend a weekend is submerged in hot water, saying as little as possible. But the philosophy underneath is completely different. In Japan, the onsen is a ritual of precision and restraint, a carefully choreographed retreat from the relentless social performance of the working week. In Iceland, the geothermal pool is a town square with better acoustics, where gossip, business deals, and childhood friendships are conducted at chest height in 38-degree water, regardless of what the weather is doing four feet above the surface.
Both cultures have made peace with nudity, heat, and silence as national leisure activities, which as an outsider takes some recalibrating. I spent my first Icelandic weekend deeply confused about why the entire town appeared to be socialising, half-naked, at 7am on a Saturday, and my first Japanese onsen visit deeply confused about why nobody was speaking to anyone, ever, despite being equally naked. Neither confusion resolved quickly. Both were worth it.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Wash thoroughly at the shower stations before entering the onsen | Bring a towel into the water — keep it folded on your head or beside the bath |
| Move and speak quietly; the onsen is a place of restraint | Take photos, ever, under any circumstances |
| Cover tattoos if the establishment requests it, or find a tattoo-friendly bathhouse | Swim laps or splash — this is soaking, not exercise |
| Book weekend hiking or ryokan trips well in advance | Assume "weekend" means Saturday and Sunday off — many still work Saturdays |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Shower thoroughly, naked, in the communal changing room before the pool — it's mandatory and monitored | Wear a swimsuit into the pre-pool shower; modesty here works backwards from what you expect |
| Strike up conversation in the hot pot — it's the local town hall | Be surprised when your plumber, your MP, and your barista are all in the same hot tub |
| Treat the pool as a Saturday morning ritual, not a special occasion | Expect nightlife to start before midnight — Reykjavik runs on a very different clock |
| Layer up for unpredictable weather even in "summer" | Assume a sunny forecast means a sunny afternoon — it will change four times before lunch |
Japanese weekend culture runs on an almost paradoxical premise: relaxation requires structure. The onsen isn't somewhere you flop into after a long week so much as somewhere you are gently, silently instructed in how to properly let go. You wash first — thoroughly, at a low stool, facing away from other bathers — before so much as approaching the communal bath, and to skip this step is to mark yourself instantly and permanently as a tourist who hasn't done the reading.
Once in the water, the etiquette tightens rather than loosens. Voices drop. Splashing is a minor scandal. The towel goes on your head, never in the water, an arrangement that looks faintly ridiculous until you realise everyone else is doing it with total sincerity, which somehow makes it less ridiculous and more like a shared national in-joke you've been quietly let into.
Beyond the bath, Japanese weekends favour meticulously planned micro-adventures: a hike to a specific shrine, a curated ryokan stay in the mountains, a day devoted entirely to one exceptional bowl of ramen sought out across three train changes. Spontaneity is not the local love language; devotion to a plan is. And Saturdays, contrary to the Western assumption of a full weekend off, are still a working day for a meaningful share of the country — retail, hospitality, and plenty of white-collar workers included — so "weekend culture" here often means a single sacred day, guarded and optimised with an intensity that would exhaust a management consultant. The result is leisure that feels earned rather than given, and once you adjust to the quiet, it's genuinely restorative — provided you can survive the shame of forgetting to rinse your towel.
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Icelandic weekends are built around the sundlaug — the local geothermal pool — with a devotion that borders on civic religion. Every town, no matter how small, has one, and every Icelander treats their local pool the way other nations treat their pub, their church, or their group chat: as the place where actual community happens. You will find cabinet ministers, fishermen, and teenagers sharing the same hot pot on a Saturday morning, and the conversation flows with a directness that catches most newcomers off guard — Icelanders will ask about your divorce, your salary, or your opinion on the fishing quota within about four minutes of meeting you in the water.
The changing-room ritual, meanwhile, is the opposite of Japan's discretion: showering fully nude, in a communal, well-lit space, before you're even allowed near the pool, is not optional and is actively enforced by pool staff who will send you back if you've skipped a body part. Swimsuits go on after the shower, not before, which reverses every modesty instinct a newcomer arrives with.
Beyond the pool, weekends lean toward the outdoors regardless of what the notoriously fickle weather is doing — hiking, driving out to see waterfalls, or simply sitting in a hot tub in horizontal sleet, because waiting for good weather in Iceland means waiting forever. Nightlife, when it happens, starts absurdly late by most standards — Reykjavik bars don't really get going until close to midnight — so the rhythm of an Icelandic weekend often runs pool at 9am, hike at noon, dinner at 9pm, bar until 4am, a schedule that will wreck your sleep and somehow still feel like the most social 48 hours of your month.
Japan wins if you want your weekend to feel like a beautifully maintained garden — every element considered, nothing left to chance, restraint as the highest form of respect. Iceland wins if you want your weekend to feel like a slightly too-honest family dinner with the entire town, where the hot water loosens tongues as effectively as it loosens muscles. I have never felt more anonymous and at peace than in a Kyoto onsen at dusk. I have never learned more about a country's national mood, its politics, and its neighbours' business than in forty minutes at a Reykjavik hot pot. Pick your poison: quiet dignity, or communal gossip in swimwear.
Reddit r/japanlife — "Forgot to rinse the soap off my shoulder before getting in. The obaachan next to me didn't say a word, just pointed at the shower stalls with the kind of look that ended three generations of family pride."
Reddit r/Iceland — "An Icelander asked me my salary, my relationship status, and my opinion on whale hunting in the same pool session. All before I'd even acclimatised to the water temperature."
Quora — "What do Icelanders do on weekends? Answer: swim, gossip, swim again, then argue about the weather forecast that already changed twice since breakfast."
Both countries have quietly rejected the idea that a weekend should be about doing more, opting instead for doing less, deeply. Japan wraps that philosophy in silence and ceremony; Iceland wraps it in steam and unfiltered small talk. Neither will hand you a lie-in or a lazy brunch — you'll be up, wet, and probably half-naked with strangers by mid-morning in both places. The only real difference is whether those strangers ignore you completely or ask about your love life. Choose accordingly, and either way, bring your own towel — sharing one is a diplomatic incident in both countries, for entirely different reasons.
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Photo by Anele Ludaviciute via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.