🇵🇱 Poland vs 🇨🇿 Czechia
By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Every country has a relationship with its own calendar, and most of them lie about it. Poland does not. Poland's public holidays are a national mood ring that swings, without apology, from devastating grief to full-contact water warfare within the same six months, and it expects you to keep up. Czechia, meanwhile, has quietly worked out that the only sustainable national festival culture is one built around the thing it already does better than almost anyone else on the planet: making and drinking beer. Neither country is interested in your idea of a tidy, Instagrammable "cultural experience." Both will hand you something considerably weirder and considerably more honest.
I have now spent enough autumns in Warsaw cemeteries and enough Mays standing soaked to the bone in Kraków, and enough long Czech weekends failing to find an open shop on September 28th, to say this with confidence: if you want to understand how a country actually feels about time, duty, and joy, skip the brochure and go stand in the street on a public holiday. Poland will make you cry and then throw a bucket of water on you a few months later. Czechia will just pour you a pint and call it statehood.
Poland:
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Visit a cemetery on November 1st — it is the single most moving public ritual in the country, candles and all | Buy chrysanthemums as a cheerful hostess gift — they are strictly funeral and grave flowers here |
| Wear clothes you don't mind ruining on Easter Monday (Śmigus-Dyngus) | Step outside looking presentable on Śmigus-Dyngus and expect to stay that way |
| Plan your travel around the "majówka" bridge holidays in early May — everyone else is | Assume shops will be open on a Sunday, holiday or not — the trading ban is real and unforgiving |
Czechia:
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Expect literally everything, including supermarkets, to close on September 28th (St. Wenceslas/Statehood Day) | Schedule anything urgent on a Czech public holiday and assume "someone will be open" |
| Accept a light tap from a pomlazka willow whip on Easter Monday as the tradition it is, not an insult | Overreact to being swatted with a ribboned willow switch at Easter — it's folklore, not an assault |
| Go to a proper beer festival (Pilsner Fest in Plzeň, the Czech Beer Festival in Prague) at least once | Expect festival beer to be a novelty craft thing — it is a deeply serious national institution |
Poland's holiday calendar is, structurally, a grief-and-release cycle, and nobody there finds that strange. All Saints' Day on November 1st — Wszystkich Świętych — is a statutory public holiday, and what actually happens is that the entire country goes to the cemetery. Families travel across the country to tend family graves, the Polish Press Agency has reported crowds moving through graveyards nationwide, and by nightfall the cemeteries are a sea of candlelight you can genuinely see glowing from a distance, visible even in satellite-style aerial shots that circulate every year. It is tender, it is enormous in scale, and it is treated with zero irony. Bring chrysanthemums if you're visiting a grave; do not, under any circumstances, bring chrysanthemums as a gift to a dinner party, because in Poland that flower means exactly one thing and it is not "thank you for having me."
Then, five-odd months later, the same culture produces Śmigus-Dyngus — Wet Monday, the day after Easter — in which the acceptable, encouraged, borderline-mandatory activity is dousing other people, strangers included, with buckets and water guns on the street. Polskie Radio covers it every year like clockwork because it genuinely disrupts the whole country; it has pagan purification roots going back to pre-Christian spring rites, and it has survived Christianisation, communism, and the EU completely intact as an excuse to soak your neighbours. Add Constitution Day on May 3rd — commemorating Europe's first written constitution, from 1791 — which conveniently bridges into a long "majówka" weekend with May 1st Labour Day, and you get a nation that has engineered its public holidays into one long seasonal argument between solemnity and chaos. Throw in a near-total Sunday trading ban since 2018, and Poland's calendar reads less like a tourist board pamphlet and more like a national character study: devout, stubborn, occasionally drenched.
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Czechia takes a different, far less emotionally complicated approach: it has one real national personality trait — an unshakeable, world-leading relationship with beer — and it has built festival culture almost entirely around protecting and celebrating it. The Czech Beer Festival in Prague runs for roughly seventeen days in May at Výstaviště Letňany, and Pilsner Fest takes over Plzeň every autumn, marking the founding of Pilsner Urquell in 1842 with the city, quite literally, brewing its own history for public consumption. CzechTourism's own materials aren't shy about this: the country has one of the highest per-capita beer consumption rates on earth and treats that fact as a point of civic pride rather than something to downplay. This is not craft-beer tourism nonsense. It is closer to a liturgical calendar with hops.
Where Czechia gets genuinely strange — and brilliant — is Velikonoce, Easter, where boys weave a pomlazka, a braided willow switch decorated with ribbons, and lightly whip girls' legs on Easter Monday while reciting rhymes, in exchange for a painted egg, a ribbon, or a shot of slivovice. It sounds, described coldly, like an HR nightmare. Experienced on the ground, it is closer to a flirtatious, slightly absurd village tradition nobody is remotely embarrassed by. Then there's September 28th, St. Wenceslas Day, doubling as Czech Statehood Day — Radio Prague International is explicit that it honours the patron saint whose legacy underwrites Czech national identity itself, and the practical effect, as expats.cz dutifully documents every year, is that the entire country simply closes. Not "reduced hours." Closed. Czechia doesn't throw a parade for its own history; it just stops, drinks, and expects you to have planned your grocery shopping accordingly.
If you want catharsis, Poland wins outright — nowhere else turns grief into a national candlelit vigil of this scale and then, months later, turns joy into a licensed assault-by-water-bucket on your person. That emotional range is the whole point, and it's the more honest of the two calendars: it doesn't pretend life is only one register.
But if you actually have to live there, year-round, functioning as an adult with errands — Czechia wins on pure usability of pleasure. Its holidays don't ask you to process anything complicated; they ask you to show up, accept a ribboned willow switch to the shins with good humour, and drink something brewed with four centuries of quiet, unbothered competence behind it. Poland will teach you something about mortality and chaos. Czechia will simply make sure you're never more than a short walk from a decent pilsner on the day it matters most. I know which one I'd rather be stuck in a queue outside a closed Tesco for.
Reddit r/poland — a recurring thread theme: new residents venting that the expanded Sunday trading ban means an entire weekend can pass with every supermarket locked, holiday or not, and nobody warns you until you're standing outside a dark Biedronka.
Internations Warsaw community — posts cautioning newcomers that wearing anything you actually like outdoors on Easter Monday is a rookie mistake, because Śmigus-Dyngus treats every pedestrian as fair game for a bucket.
expat.com Czech Republic forum — discussion threads on surviving a first pomlazka Easter without flinching, paraphrased as: nobody explains beforehand that being swatted with a ribboned willow switch by a neighbour's kid is a compliment, not an incident.
Here is the thing both countries would tell you, if either of them were in the business of explaining themselves to outsiders, which they are not: a public holiday is a mirror, and these two mirrors show completely different faces. Poland's shows you a country that has never stopped negotiating between Catholic solemnity and pagan mischief, sometimes in the same fiscal quarter. Czechia's shows you a country that decided, with admirable clarity, that national identity and a well-kept pilsner glass are not actually separate subjects. Neither is performing for you. That's the tell. The candles in the Polish cemeteries aren't lit for tourists, and the beer tents in Plzeň aren't pouring for Instagram engagement — they were doing all of this decades before anyone cared to photograph it, and they'll keep doing it long after you've gone home and started bragging about how "authentic" it all was. It wasn't authentic. It was just Tuesday. That's the whole point you missed.
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Photo by Shaga Tripura via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.