🇷🇺 Russia vs Italy 🇮🇹 — By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
Russia celebrates New Year like it personally defeated winter. Italy celebrates August like August personally defeated capitalism. Both countries have, independently and with zero self-awareness, decided that an entire calendar month belongs to leisure rather than labour — they simply disagree on which month, and on whether "leisure" should involve vodka, pyrotechnics, and a tree, or the Adriatic, a spritz, and total institutional silence.
I have spent a New Year's Eve in Moscow that did not, by any measure, end. I have also tried to get a plumber in Rome on August 16th. Only one of these experiences taught me something about the limits of my own patience, and it wasn't the vodka.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Clear your entire first ten days of January — officially, you have to | Expect a single, tidy New Year's Eve; it's a season, not a night |
| Learn to love Old New Year (January 13th) — yes, it's real, yes, people celebrate it | Confuse Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) for the "real" one and skip it entirely |
| Buy champagne in bulk — Soviet Champagne, specifically, ironically, unkillably | Schedule anything important for the first two weeks of January; nobody will show up |
| Watch at least one presidential address and one surreal 90s-era TV special, it's tradition | Assume Victory Day (May 9th) is a minor holiday — it is the opposite of minor |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Accept that most of the country closes for Ferragosto (August 15th) and plan your life around it | Try to get any bureaucratic, medical, or trade task done in Italy during August |
| Learn your local patron saint's feast day — it's a bank holiday nobody outside the region knows about | Assume a "chiuso per ferie" sign means a week; it often means a month |
| Enjoy Carnevale regionally — Venice and small-town versions are wildly different experiences | Expect restaurants, pharmacies, or your landlord to be reachable August 1–31 |
| Buy your Christmas panettone early — the good bakeries sell out weeks ahead | Plan a September move-in that depends on anyone returning calls before September 2nd |
Nobody tells you, before you move to Russia, that New Year isn't an event — it's an occupation of the calendar. The official holidays run from roughly December 31st through January 8th or 10th, by law, which already sounds generous until you realise the celebrating doesn't remotely stay inside those lines. Preparations start in early December. Recovery continues well past the official end date. The entire country essentially downs tools for closer to two weeks than one, and treats anyone who suggests "getting back to normal" sooner as faintly suspicious.
Then there's the quietly glorious absurdity of having two New Years and two Christmases. The secular, fireworks-and-champagne New Year on December 31st is the big one, borrowed in spirit from the Soviet era's deliberate secularisation of the holiday calendar. Orthodox Christmas lands on January 7th, a full twelve days after the Western one, because Russia still runs partly on the Julian calendar for religious dates — and then, because apparently one extra calendar wasn't enough chaos, there's "Old New Year" on January 13th, a genuinely celebrated, if smaller, echo of the original holiday under the old calendar. Explaining this system to a confused new arrival is, frankly, one of the great joys of being Russian, and they will do it slowly, with visible relish, more than once.
Victory Day on May 9th deserves its own paragraph of respect: this is not a barbecue holiday. It is solemn, vast, and genuinely emotionally significant across generations, commemorating the end of the Second World War on the Eastern Front at a cost that remains almost unimaginable. Treat it with the gravity it's given, and you'll be fine. Treat it like a long weekend, and you'll learn a great deal about Russian patience running out.
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Ferragosto is not a holiday. Ferragosto is a verdict. Rooted in an ancient Roman festival (the Feriae Augusti, decreed by Augustus himself, because of course it was), it has evolved into the single most disruptive date on the Italian calendar — the moment around which the entire country, from your dentist to your dry cleaner to, somehow, the national bureaucracy, simply stops. August 15th is the peak, but the shutdown bleeds across the whole month. "Chiuso per ferie" — closed for holidays — becomes the only sign in the window from Palermo to Turin, and the dates underneath it are, charmingly, often optimistic.
What makes Italian holiday culture genuinely fascinating is how local it stays even in an era of national homogenisation. Every town has a patron saint, and every patron saint has a feast day, and that feast day is a real public holiday — in that town, and nowhere else. Move fifteen kilometres and the calendar changes. This produces a uniquely Italian phenomenon where a national company's Milan office is working while its Naples office is, with total sincerity, closed for San Gennaro, and nobody involved finds this remotely strange.
Carnevale is where the regional variation turns spectacular rather than merely bureaucratic. Venice's version is the globally famous one — masks, masked balls, a city that turns itself into theatre for a fortnight. But smaller towns run entirely different, fiercely local traditions, from Ivrea's actual orange-throwing battle to Viareggio's enormous satirical floats, and locals will defend their version as objectively superior with the kind of regional pride usually reserved for football.
Russia asks you to surrender roughly the first two weeks of the year and reward you with warmth, fireworks, and a festival calendar genuinely layered with meaning. Italy asks you to surrender the entirety of August and reward you with sea, spritz, and the quiet satisfaction of a country that has correctly identified that nothing important happens in a 35-degree heatwave anyway.
If forced to choose, Italy wins on sheer civilisational confidence — closing an entire country for a month and simply daring you to be annoyed about it takes nerve. Russia wins on depth: nowhere else have I seen a culture layer three separate calendars of celebration on top of each other and somehow make all three feel essential. Neither will apologise to you for the inconvenience. Get used to it.
r/expats — paraphrased: "Nobody told me 'back to work January 9th' in Russia is a technicality. The office was functionally empty until the 15th."
Internations Rome — paraphrased: a member recounted trying to renew a residency document in late August and being told, cheerfully, to "try after September," with no further detail offered.
Quora — paraphrased, on "why does Italy close in August": a long-term resident explained it's partly climate (nobody wants to work in that heat), partly tradition, and partly a national agreement that the inconvenience is a feature, not a bug.
Both of these countries will, at some point, test your Western assumption that "closed for the holidays" means a long weekend. It doesn't. In Russia it means a full fortnight of fireworks, two Christmases, and a hangover with a government mandate behind it. In Italy it means an entire nation quietly agreeing that August doesn't count, and that your plumbing problem can simply wait until autumn, like everything else.
Plan your life, your paperwork, and your emotional expectations accordingly — and whatever you do, don't schedule anything urgent for early January in Moscow or any of August in Rome. Nobody will be there to hear you complain.
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Photo by Wolfgang Weiser via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.