🇵🇹 Portugal · 🇯🇵 Japan By Suki Nakamura, Out of Office
I have been publicly humiliated at a gym in exactly two countries, and both times it was for the same reason: I assumed fitness culture is universal. It is not. It is, like everything else worth knowing, a direct download of the national psyche, and nowhere is that clearer than watching a Portuguese man skip leg day for a second custard tart while a Japanese salaryman does calisthenics on a train platform at 6:45am because the radio told him to.
Portugal treats exercise as a pleasant rumour. Japan treats it as a civic obligation delivered via loudspeaker. Neither is wrong, exactly, but only one of them will make you feel guilty for existing at rest.
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Join a beach paddle or surf group — it's the actual gym culture | Expect your local ginásio to be open past 9pm on a Friday |
| Walk everywhere; the hills of Lisbon are the real leg day | Assume a low membership fee means low quality — some are excellent |
| Embrace the outdoor calisthenics parks along the coast | Show up to a class expecting Californian levels of enthusiasm from the instructor |
| ✅ Do | ❌ Don't |
|---|---|
| Learn the unwritten locker room choreography before your first visit | Talk loudly on the gym floor — it will be noticed, silently, forever |
| Try radio taiso, the nationwide morning stretch broadcast, at least once | Skip wiping down equipment — you will be corrected, politely, devastatingly |
| Book a class if you want structure; drop-in gym culture is thinner than you'd expect | Assume your hotel gym card grants you access anywhere else — it doesn't |
Portugal's relationship with exercise is refreshingly unbothered, which is either a national gift or a national delusion depending on how many pastéis de nata you've had this week. The country has produced elite footballers, champion surfers, and a population that walks preposterous distances up preposterous hills without complaint, and yet the concept of "going to the gym" as a lifestyle identity has never quite landed the way it has in London or Los Angeles. Lisbon and Porto have decent commercial gyms — Fitness Hut and Holmes Place chains dot the cities — but they are treated as a mildly useful amenity, not a temple.
What Portugal actually has, and what nobody sells you before you arrive, is incidental fitness disguised as lifestyle. You walk because parking is a war crime and the metro doesn't reach everywhere. You swim or surf because the coastline is right there being smug about it. You do outdoor calisthenics because someone installed pull-up bars on the Cascais boardwalk and it would be rude not to use them while pretending to check your phone. The Portuguese state's own sport participation data shows organised gym membership trailing well behind northern European averages, and yet nobody here looks unfit, because the entire country is a low-grade StairMaster with better weather.
The class culture, where it exists, is unhurried. Group fitness instructors in Portugal will not scream at you. They will gently suggest you might enjoy trying harder, the way a grandmother suggests you might enjoy a second helping. This is either exactly what you need or catastrophically insufficient motivation, and you will find out which within your first month. What you won't find, mercifully, is the judgment. Nobody in a Lisbon gym is assessing your form from across the room. They're thinking about lunch. So are you, now. That's the whole system working as intended.
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Japan does not have a fitness culture so much as a fitness liturgy, and you will be assessed on your adherence to it from the moment you swipe your membership card. The gym floor is a place of near-total silence — grunting is frowned upon, phone calls are a diplomatic incident, and eye contact during a set is the kind of thing people mention to their families later. Radio taiso, the government-endorsed morning calisthenics routine broadcast on NHK since 1928, still plays out in parks and schoolyards with a sincerity that would make a Portuguese instructor weep into their coffee.
Where Portugal outsources fitness to geography, Japan engineers it deliberately, then wraps the engineering in etiquette so dense it functions as a second gym membership fee. You must learn the correct sequence: shower before entering the pool, wipe down every machine you touch — and I mean genuinely wipe it, not the performative dab tourists attempt — and never, ever skip a step in the locker room choreography, which has apparently been passed down since the Meiji era and is enforced by silent, withering stares rather than actual rules. The Ministry of Health's own surveys show Japan has one of the lowest obesity rates among wealthy nations, and having lived through both radio taiso and the judgment of a seventy-year-old woman watching me struggle to fold a gym towel correctly, I believe every statistic.
Commercial gym chains like Konami Sports and Tipness are everywhere, but casual drop-in culture barely exists — you commit, you register, you receive a laminated card, and you understand implicitly that this is now a relationship with obligations. The freedom of a Portuguese pay-as-you-go class is nowhere to be found. What you get instead is precision, silence, and the distinct sensation that the entire gym is a courtroom and you are perpetually on trial for your form.
If you want fitness without ceremony, Portugal will let you get away with murder — or at least with a fortnight of skipped workouts excused by "the weather wasn't right for the beach." If you want a country that will quietly, relentlessly improve your posture through sheer social pressure, Japan will do it whether you consented or not. Portugal is exercise as a mood. Japan is exercise as infrastructure. I've been fitter in Japan and happier in Portugal, and I refuse to pretend those two facts don't say something uncomfortable about the price of comfort. If you can only handle one flavour of accountability — external and silent, or internal and optional — choose Japan for your body and Portugal for your soul, and stop asking me to reconcile the two.
r/japanlife — paraphrased: A user described being quietly followed by a gym staff member for three full sessions before being handed a printed diagram of the "correct" locker room sequence, with no words exchanged.
r/portugal — paraphrased: A commenter joked that the only real cardio in Lisbon is arguing with your landlord, and that gym memberships mostly go unused after February.
Internations Lisbon — paraphrased: An expat noted that Portuguese gym staff will let your membership lapse for months without so much as a reminder email, which they found either liberating or alarming depending on the week.
Neither country will tell you the truth about fitness culture before you arrive, because both assume their approach is simply how humans behave. It isn't. It's a national script, performed with total sincerity, and you will either be swept along by Japan's silent choreography or gently lulled into Portugal's beautiful indifference. I've done both. I own gym clothes I've never used in Lisbon and a folding technique I will take to my grave in Tokyo. Pick your discipline accordingly, and don't expect either country to apologise for the version of fitness it's given you. They won't. They're both far too busy being right about it.
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Photo by Miguel González via Pexels
Suki Nakamura
Staff writer covering financial markets and corporate strategy. Has strong opinions about spreadsheets.